If you don’t need a ton of space, I recommend using an SUV over a van. They can be easily, quickly, and inexpensively modified for off-roading or even on-roading.
Lift kits are inexpensive and plentiful for a truck. Cow catchers (brush guards and bull bars) are easy to find. Auxiliary lighting kits are easy to find and can be bought as vehicle-specific kits that are ready to install. In short, off-roading parts and accessories are tailored for trucks, not vans. The selection of accessories and parts are harder to find and usually cost more for vans. This is not always the case, but is a general rule of thumb.
You can look at the images of companies making these kits and replicate them on your own with some fairly basic woodworking tools (table saw, jigsaw, circular saw, drill & impact driver, etc.) But if you don’t have access to these tools or don’t want to drop a few hundred on them (if you won’t use them again), then looking for kits like Roadloft makes a lot of sense. Not sponsored by the way – just a really interesting thing you should know about.
Now that the used car market seems to be stabilizing, you should be able to pick up a suitable SUV for sub-$10k, plus the cost of a conversion kit, and you are set for adventure. If the drivetrain and engine are in good working order, you can take a bone-stock SUV through surprisingly rough terrain with nothing more than good tires. Throw on a Harbor Freight winch on a good brush guard (you’ll want one for sure) and some good tires, and you can tackle a ton of rough terrain. Not extreme wheeling, but it’ll probably get you where you want to go 80%-90% of the time without much difficulty.
Which SUVs Are Best?There are two that stick out from the whole pack:
Chevrolet Suburban / GMC Yukon XL
Ford Excursion
Caveat: I have owned two Excursions in the past, but I don’t own them anymore, so I’m trying to be unbiased. Our editor owns a 2000 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 – he’s 6 feet tall and can lay down in the back with ample room for pillows and luggage at his head or feet, and while it’s not the most luxurious rig around, it’s cavernous and that matters a lot for extended travel.
Suburban
The Sub would generally be my first pick, but there is one thing I really don’t like about it: it’s harder to find a ¾-ton Sub. Yes, they have made ¾-ton Subs for decades, but they have been geared toward commercial sales for years now. The demand just hasn’t been there for heavy-duty SUVs, which is why the Excursion ultimately petered out after just five model years. Our editor’s 2500 is a ¾-ton, but he’s also been trying to sell it for a year with no luck, so evidently not a lot of people want one – or maybe they don’t know how awesome it can be for van life and car camping. And now you do.
“Why not go with a Tahoe?” Because I’m not dumb. Look, the Tahoe is just a shortened Sub. If you are okay with losing valuable internal volume, then go with the Tahoe. I personally am not, so I’m going with the Sub. The fuel mileage is the same, and the parts are all the same. You’ll want the storage space, and you’ll want to sleep in a natural position, so go bigger.
Excursion
The Excursion was made from 2000-2005, and it was exclusively built on a ¾-ton platform. The spring packs were different from the F-250 (softer), but it is unnoticeable unless you are towing. I had no issues with sagging with my 2005, but my 2000 sagged pretty badly with a heavy load on the tongue.
These were equipped with the Triton 6.8L V-10 gas engine or a diesel engine (7.3L or 6.0L, depending on the year), so they were no slouches in towing. However, if you want it for living in and not hauling, the Triton 5.4L is fine and might get slightly better mileage than the V-10.
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